Barren

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We hit the Friendship Highway at rush-hour

This weeks PhotoFriday theme is “Barren.” Here is my entry. This picture was taken on the Tibetan side of the Himalayas on the last day as we were about to head back into Nepal.

Please also vote for my entry in last weeks challenge, “Busy.” I’m number 278 (”–> Stephen <–”).

Train to the Roof of the World

I couldn’t let the inaugural train journey betweeen Beijing and Lhasa, the capital of Tibet, go by without comment. It represents a huge shift for the Tibetans and, while it could bring some positive changes, it’s more likely to bring large numbers of Chinese and a quickening of the pace of the decline of their unique culture.

Wired has a nice article — “Train to the Roof of the World” — that takes a balanced view of the technology and politics. The BBC’s — “First Beijing train reaches Lhasa” — is much shorter if you’re pushed for time!

Also see the pictures from my 2002 trip to the region.

The Road

Road to NowhereCue Talking Heads music… we’re on the road to no-where. But actually it’s in Tibet. This was our last night in the region and the next day we’d head over the Himalayas into Nepal, which is the most spectacular overland journey I have ever been on.

This image taken on my EOS300 with 28-90mm USM lens on Fuji Reala 100 film.

Tibet, 2002

I assure you: it’s not deliberate. I’d like to go on record and say that I do not plan to only go to obscure — some have even said dangerous — places. I just go where my interests lie.

I’ve been to a couple of Buddhist countries recently (Thailand and Sri Lanka), but they both practise the same kind of Buddhism — called Theravada. I originally thought that they were the less pure form, the Church of England to Tibet’s Catholicism. I went to Tibet to see the “real” Buddhism, however it turns out that, in some ways, the opposite is true (it’s a long story; leave comments!). Tibetan Buddhism (Mahayana) is actually a merger of the traditional Tibetan religion, Bön, with more normal Buddhism.

My confusion over their form of Buddhism was only the start of it. It’s a schizophrenic place, one where the peoples army destroyed some temples and preserved others, fighting between themselves on more than one occasion.

The Chinese have transformed Lhasa to such an extent that there’s now a “Tibetan Quarter,” yet the Tibetans still seem to be certain of their own identity.

It’s easy to see how people become passionate about the cause of the Tibetan people, however to deny that the Chinese have had a significant positive effect (in some ways) is undeniable.

So I’m in two minds about the place. Maybe with these pictures you’ll be able to make up your own mind. Let me know if you do!

The first few pictures here are all in Kathmandu; there are so few of them that it didn’t seem worth creating a new page for them.

Click the small pictures below for a full size version.

Nepalese road-sign Near Durbar Square, Kathmandu, Nepal Bodnath Stupa, Kathmandu Pashupatinath
Pashupatinath, Kathmandu Tibetan landscape Prayer Wheels Samye Monetary
Samye Monastery Yumbu Lagang, Palace of the early kings Prayer flags Sera Monastery
Potala Palace, Lhasa View over Samye Spectacular view near Sera Monastery Spectacular view near Sera Monastery
The Jokang Temple, Lhasa The Potala Palace Barkour Square Potala Palace and Barkour Square, Lhasa
Those stunning Golden Yaks Yamdroq (Turquoise) Lake Walking around the Barkhor Gyantse Kumbum
Shigatse town centre We hit the Friendship Highway at rush-hour Tashilumpo Monastery The Himalayas look spectacular at dawn
The location of our last night-stop in Tibet Back in Nepal it gets lush and green very quickly

All pictures were taken on my EOS300 using Fuji Reala ISO100 negative film except for the first two in Kathmandu which were taken using Fuji Sensia II ISO 100 slide film. Most outdoor photographs were taken with a polarising filter.

If the pictures have piqued your interest, there are a few web Sites that you might want to visit:

  • I’ve deliberately avoided talking about the politics of the area, but as a member of Amnesty it’s difficult not to feel involved to some extent. Have a look at the Free Tibet Campaign or the main Amnesty International site if you want to read more.
  • As always, there’s a Lonely Planet guide. You can buy a copy from Amazon (UK or US). However, I found the Footprint guide to be much better (UK or US).
  • You might also like to read “Sorrow Mountain” by Ani Pachen, a Tibetan Nun. The language used is almost child-like in its simplicity, but, because of what she had to endure, it’s not an easy read. Worth the effort, though. (Available from Amazon UK or US.)
  • Tibetan Buddhism Timeline. On the trip we saw many of the important sites mentioned in this list.